What is suede leather? How is it made? Is it good for bag?

Suede leather is a type of real leather that is formed by polishing the inner layer (the suede layer) of the leather. It features a fine velvet surface. It possesses the quality of high-end leather materials, giving items a retro, luxurious or laid-back style. Its elegant texture still makes it a classic material, and thus it is favored by fashion brands.

Suede leather is mainly used in items such as high-end shoes, handbags, jackets and home decorations.

This post will explore the characteristics of suede leather and the advantages and disadvantages of manufacturing bags with it.

 

What Is Suede Leather?

Suede leather (velvet-like leather) is a type of real leather processed through special techniques. Its most notable feature is having a soft, fine, matte velvet-like surface.

Suede leather is a high-end type of genuine leather, favored for its softness, velvety texture, and matte appearance – this effect is achieved by carefully grinding or polishing the inner layers (the flesh side) of animal leather (usually cowhide, sheepskin, or goatskin), thereby creating a dense, short, and fluffy layer of fur on the surface. It is a unique variant of genuine leather, different from nubuck (which is buffed from the outer grain side of cowhide and more durable) and smooth full-grain leather (untreated outer hide with a natural grain).

 

Source of Raw Materials

• Animal species: Mainly sourced from the skins of animals such as sheep (like lambskin), cattle, pigs, deer, etc. Among them, sheepskin and cowhide are the most common.
• Skin layer selection: Select the inner layer (the flesh side layer) of the animal skin. This layer has looser fibers and a softer texture, making it suitable for making suede.

 

Characteristics and Performance:

Appearance and Touch:

• Fur-like texture: The surface is covered with fine fur, giving a soft and smooth feel.
• Matte finish: Presents a matte or frosted effect, visually soft and with a sense of depth.

Performance Features:

• Good breathability: The fiber structure is open, allowing for smooth air circulation, suitable for making close-fitting garments.
• High moisture absorption: Can absorb and release moisture, maintaining comfort during wear.
• High softness: The texture is soft, easy to bend and fold, suitable for making various shaped leather products.
• Lower durability: Compared to full-grain leather, suede leather has lower durability, prone to fading, absorbing water, and deforming.

 

Classification of Suede Leather

Type	Description	Characteristics
Full-Grain Suede	Made from the top layer of the hide	Most durable, retains natural grain patterns
Top-Grain Suede	Made from the second layer of the hide	Softer than full-grain, less durable
Split Suede	Made from the lower layers of the hide	Least durable, more affordable

 

It can also be classified by the type of animal hide:

• Cow Suede: Durable and commonly used for shoes
• Sheep Suede: Exceptionally soft, often used for clothing and accessories
• Pig Suede: More textured, frequently used for gloves and linings

 

Main Applications

Fashion Field:

• Clothing: Jackets, skirts, gloves, scarves, etc., adding elegance and texture.
• Footwear: Boots, sneakers, casual shoes, etc., balancing comfort and fashion.
• Accessories: Handbags, wallets, belts, etc., enhancing luxury.

Home Decoration:

• Furniture: Sofas, chairs, headboard cushions, etc., creating a warm atmosphere.
• Curtains, carpets: Increasing the softness and sophistication of the space.

Car Interior:

Seats, steering wheels, instrument panels: Enhancing the refined feeling of the driving experience.

Crafts and DIY:

Jewelry, keychains, notebook covers: Exploring creative design.

 

Suede vs. Similar Materials

Material	Source	Surface	Durability	Water Resistance
Suede	Inner hide (split)	Napped, fuzzy	Low–Medium	Very low
Nubuck	Outer hide (top grain)	Sanded smooth-nap	High	Low (but tougher than suede)
Smooth Leather	Outer hide	Glossy/smooth	High	Medium–High
Ultrasuede®	Synthetic (microfiber)	Soft, suede-like	High	High (stain/water-resistant)

Fun Fact: The word “suede” comes from the French gants de Suède (“gloves from Sweden”), as Swedish tanners were famous in the 18th century for producing ultra-soft gloves from reindeer hide.

 

Similar Materials to Suede Leather:

• Suede vs. Suede Leather: “Suede” refers to the general category of leather that has been treated with embossing, while “suede leather” specifically refers to products made from this material. “Suede” can be understood as the fabric, while “suede leather” is regarded as the finished product.
• Suede Leather vs. Nubuck: Nubuck is made by polishing the outer surface of the leather, thus having more durable properties and a finer nap. While the suede leather is made from the inner side of the leather, it is softer but less durable.
• Suede Leather vs. Faux Suede: Artificial suede is a synthetic material, usually made of polyester, intended to imitate the appearance and feel of real suede leather. Although it is more affordable and easier to maintain, it lacks the breathability and natural characteristics of genuine suede leather.

Understanding these differences can help make informed decisions when purchasing and maintaining suede leather products.

Is Suede Leather Real Leather?

Suede leather is a type of real leather. Its essence is a material obtained through special processing of animal leather.

 

The Definition Criteria for Real Leather

The international leather industry has clear definition standards for “real leather”, mainly based on three core elements: material source (must come from animal skin), fiber structure (retaining the natural collagen fiber network), and tanning process (through chemical or plant tanning treatment).

 

The Compliance of Suede Leather

Suede leather fully complies with these three standards:

• Material source: The base material of suede leather is animal skin, not plastic, textiles, or recycled fibers.
• Fiber structure: The polishing process does not destroy the continuity of the collagen fibers; it only changes the surface morphology.
• Tanning process: Suede must undergo tanning to become a stable material; otherwise, it will rot.

It is worth noting that the definition of real leather does not include the condition of “whether the surface is smooth”. Smooth leather (full grain leather), suede (nubuck), and suede are different manifestations of real leather, with the only difference being the surface treatment process. Among them, nubuck is the polishing of the surface layer (outer layer) to form short and dense hairs, while suede is the polishing of the inner layer (meat layer) to form longer hairs. However, both are real leather. It’s like the same piece of fabric, the front is smooth, and the back is furry, but they are all cotton.

 

Suede Leather Is Real Leather: Natural Animal Leather

• Core raw material: mainly derived from the inner layer (flesh side) of animal leathers such as sheepskin, cowhide, and pigskin. Some high-end products may use deer skin.
• Difference between tradition and modernity: Traditionally, deer skin was mostly used for production, but due to animal protection policies and cost considerations, modern production now widely uses economical raw materials such as cowhide and sheepskin. For example, Dr. Martens’ Martin boots use North American/South American cowhide to make the suede version, while UGG snow boots prefer sheepskin suede.

 

Physical Characteristics: Typical Manifestations of Natural Leather

• Air permeability: The fibrous structure is open, allowing for smooth air circulation, making it suitable for making close-fitting garments.
• Hygroscopicity: It can absorb and release moisture, maintaining comfort during wear. For example, the hygroscopicity of natural deer skin can reach over 15%, much higher than that of ordinary synthetic materials.
• Softness: The texture is soft, easy to bend and fold, suitable for making various shaped leather products.
• Durability: Compared to full-grain leather, suede has lower durability. It is prone to fading, absorbing water, and deforming. Avoid direct sunlight and humid environments.

 

Difference from Synthetic Materials

• Structure of natural fibers: The fibers of the suede leather are composed of the natural fibers of animal leather. Under a microscope, irregular fiber bundles can be observed.
• Burning test: When natural suede leather burns, there is a smell of protein burning, and the ashes are in the form of black powder; while synthetic materials (such as polyurethane PU) will melt and drip when burning, and emit a pungent chemical smell.
• Touch and elasticity: The touch of natural suede leather is smooth and elastic. It can quickly return to its original shape after being pressed; while synthetic materials often have slow rebound or leave indentations.

In short: natural suede = real leather; faux suede = not leather.

 

Key Differences: Real Suede vs. Faux Suede

Feature	Real Suede Leather	Faux Suede (Synthetic)
Material	Animal hide (inner split)	Polyester, polyurethane
Texture	Natural, slightly irregular nap	Uniform, consistent feel
Water Reaction	Absorbs water, darkens	Repels water
Durability	Less durable, stains easily	More stain- and water-resistant
Breathability	High	Low
Eco-Impact	Biodegradable (but animal-based)	Not biodegradable (plastic-based)

 

Purchase Suggestions and Authenticity Identification Tips

Based on the above analysis, when consumers purchase suede leather products, they can confirm whether it is real leather through the following methods:

• Check the label: This is the most reliable method. Real leather products should be labeled as “genuine leather”, “real leather”, or “100% leather”, and some brands may indicate the type of animal (such as “sheep leather”). If it is labeled as “man-made”, “PU”, “microfiber”, etc., then it is an artificial material.
• Observe the edge cross-section: The edge of real suede leather shows a rough texture of natural fibers, and the cross-section has fiber bundles; the edge of artificial materials is neat and the cross-section is smooth.
• Touch and smell: The touch of genuine suede leather is soft but has a “meaty” feel, and it rebounds slowly after being pressed, with a natural leather smell; imitation products have a harder touch or are too uniform, with a chemical smell.
• Water drop test: Drop a drop of water in a concealed area. Real leather will slowly absorb (within several minutes), while artificial materials do not absorb or form water droplets.
• Price reference: Genuine suede leather products have higher prices due to the cost of raw materials and complex manufacturing processes (for example, suede shoes usually cost over 100 US dollars, and bag types cost over 200 US dollars). Low prices should be cautious.

 

How Is Suede Leather Made?

Suede leather is made through a specific processing technique, which transforms the inner layer of animal skin into a soft and fuzzy material – unlike smooth leather (which is made using the outer grain layer of the hide).

 

Hide Selection & Splitting

Firstly, use untreated animal skins (durable mink fur usually uses cowhide; softer and more luxurious mink fur uses lamb or goat hide). Firstly, clean the skin to remove dirt, blood and impurities. Then, use a layering machine to cut the skin horizontally into two or more layers: the thicker, denser outer texture layer (for full-grain/face-grain smooth leather) and the thinner, more fibrous inner layer – this is the basic material of mink fur.

 

Pre-Tanning Preparation

The pre-treatment is carried out layer by layer to prepare for tanning:

• Lime treatment and deslime treatment: The lime solution removes hair, fat and unnecessary proteins; then the skin is rinsed to neutralize the lime.
• De-oiling treatment: Remove excess oil to ensure uniform tanning and prevent future deterioration.
• Pickling: Soak the animal skin in an acid salt solution to adjust its pH and make it suitable for using tanning agents.

 

Tanning: Stabilizing the Hide

Leather tanning is a crucial step that transforms perishable raw skin into durable leather. For sable skin, chrome tanning is the most common method (fast, cost-effective, and capable of producing soft and elastic sable skin): the split animal skin is immersed in a chromium sulfate solution for several hours, which binds with the animal skin fibers, preventing decay and giving the leather a soft texture. Some high-end sable skins use vegetable tanning (slower, more environmentally friendly) to achieve a more natural touch, but this practice is not common.

 

Buffing/Sanding: Creating the Signature Nap

This step determines the velvety texture of the suede. The tanned split layers are dried to the ideal moisture level and then fixed onto a rotating drum or platform. Fine sandpaper or a grinding roller is used to repeatedly rub the flesh side (the inner surface) of the animal skin, gently scraping the surface to form a dense, short and uniform velvet-like pile of fibers (the soft, velvety-like strands we are referring to). The direction and pressure of the polishing are precisely controlled to avoid damaging the fragile fibers.

Dyeing & Finishing

• Dyeing: The polished leather will be dyed to achieve the desired color effect. Suede has excellent dyeing properties, so it can present rich, matte tones. The dyeing methods include soaking dyeing (for obtaining deep and uniform colors) or spray dyeing (for lighter tones).
• Maintenance: Use a lightweight maintenance agent to keep the suede soft and prevent the fur from becoming brittle.
• Trimming & Leveling: Cut the suede through a shearing machine into uniformly lengthened fur to ensure consistency in the surface texture. High-quality suede may also receive a thin protective coating (waterproof/anti-scratch coating) to enhance durability, but this coating is used sparingly to preserve the natural fur.

Inspection & Grading

Finally, the finished suede leather is inspected to check for any flaws (such as uneven fur, holes, and stains). The quality is graded accordingly – high-quality suede has uniform and dense fur with almost no flaws and is used for high-end bags, shoes, and jackets; lower-grade suede is used for smaller accessories or decorations.

 

Key difference: Nubuck leather is made by a similar polishing process on the outer grain layer of cowhide (the outer layer of cowhide). It has a more durable material compared to suede (suede uses the inner layer with multiple layers). In contrast, faux suede is an artificial material – made from interwoven polyester/nylon fibers. These fibers are polished to simulate the texture of suede, and no animal skin is used throughout the production process.

 

How Long Does Suede Leather Last?

The regular lifespan of suede leather is 3 to 8 years. The exact duration depends on the usage frequency, maintenance methods, and quality grade.

Under normal use (such as 2-3 times per week) and with regular professional maintenance, high-quality top-grain suede shoes or handbags can maintain good condition for more than 5 years; frequent daily use without maintenance may result in obvious wear and tear within 2-3 years. It should be emphasized that due to the surface fuzz structure of suede, its durability is slightly lower than that of smooth leather, and the lifespan varies greatly from individual to individual.

 

The Key Factors Affecting the Service Life

Factor	Level of Impact	Details
Frequency of Use	⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐	Daily use vs. occasional use can result in a 2–3 times difference in lifespan.
Care & Maintenance	⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐	Regular professional care can extend the lifespan by more than 50%.
Quality Grade​	⭐⭐⭐⭐	Full-grain suede vs. split suede can differ by 30–50% in durability.
Environment​	⭐⭐⭐	Damp, dusty, or humid conditions accelerate aging.
Usage Habits​	⭐⭐	Improper use (e.g., wearing in rain) can cause immediate damage.

 

The Typical Lifespan Range of Different Products

Product Type	Normal Lifespan	With Good Care	Notes
Suede Shoes	2–4 years	3–6 years	Sole and heel wear are the main limiting factors.
Suede Handbags	3–5 years	5–8 years	Handles and corners wear first, but overall more durable.
Suede Clothing	3–5 years	4–7 years	Seams, elbows, etc., are prone to wear.
Suede Accessories	4–6 years	6–10 years	Lower intensity of use extends lifespan.

Note: The above period is the “normal usage” duration, not the complete scrapped time. The suede products may experience color fading, flattened fur, and local wear and tear in the later stage, but they can still be used; it’s just that their appearance quality will decline.

 

Key Maintenance Measures for Extending the Lifespan of Leather Products

To maximize the lifespan of leather products, the following measures are crucial:

• Professional protection treatment: Use the waterproof and stain-resistant spray specifically for leather immediately after purchase, and reapply it every 3-6 months.
• Daily cleaning: Use a leather-specific brush or an eraser to gently brush off surface dust. Avoid wet wiping.
• Correct storage: Keep the filling material in its supported shape, store in a cool and dry place, and avoid heavy pressure.
• Timely handling of stains: Use professional cleaners for local treatment. Do not wash with water.
• Avoid extreme environments: Stay away from rain, high temperatures, and strong light.
• Special reminder: Once serious water stains, oil penetration, or large-scale wear occur on the leather, the repair process is difficult and costly. Prevention is far better than treatment.

 

How to Maximize Suede’s Lifespan:

Do’s	Don’ts
Apply protector spray every 2–3 months	Wear in rain or snow without protection
Use a suede brush after each wear	Scrub with water or household cleaners
Store with cedar shoe trees or tissue stuffing	Keep in plastic bags (traps moisture)
Rotate usage (e.g., alternate shoes/bags)	Overload suede bags—they stretch easily

 

The Criteria for Determining “Wear-out”

Suede products do not suddenly become unusable; they gradually deteriorate. The following situations indicate that replacement may be necessary:

• Structural damage: Cracks in seams, broken handles, etc., affecting the functionality
• Large-scale wear: Complete loss of the downy texture on key areas (such as the upper of the shoe, the corner of the bag), exposing the underlying material
• Irreparable stains: Stubborn stains that affect appearance and cannot be cleaned
• Severe deformation: Losing the original shape and being unable to recover

However, in most cases, suede products can extend their service life through professional refurbishment (such as re-coloring, re-filling the down), at a cost of approximately 30-50% of the price of a new item.

 

A Quick Note on Faux Suede

Synthetic faux suede (microfiber suede) is more durable than genuine suede (lasting for 5 – 10 years with daily use) – it is water-resistant/stain-resistant, does not wear easily, and requires the least amount of maintenance, making it an ideal choice for those who like the texture of suede but want low maintenance costs.

The actual lifespan of suede leather products varies between 3 – 8 years, depending on your usage habits and maintenance efforts. High-quality products with meticulous maintenance can approach the upper limit, while poor maintenance may cause rapid aging.

Is Suede Leather Good for Making Bags?

Yes, suede leather is suitable for making bags and is a very classic and popular material in bag design. However, it is not suitable for everyone or all usage scenarios. Whether it is “good” or not entirely depends on your specific needs and preferences.

In simple terms, if you are seeking a unique aesthetic, high-quality texture, and are willing to take good care of it, a suede leather bag is an excellent choice; if you need a “durably made” commuter bag that can withstand sun and rain and be used casually, then it might not be the most practical option.

 

Advantages of Using Suede Leather for Bags

• Unique texture and style: Suede has a matte velvet-like surface, with an extremely soft and warm touch. It can effortlessly create a retro, luxurious or relaxed and laid-back atmosphere.
• Outstanding aesthetic effect: Its natural fluffy texture and unique color variations make the design of the bag appear exceptionally high-end and layered. This is why many top fashion brands (such as Prada, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, etc.) continue to launch suede bag collections.
• Soft and comfortable: Suede is made from the inner layer of leather, which is very soft and elastic. The bags made from it usually have an excellent feel and can conform to the body shape with use, enhancing comfort.

 

Disadvantages of Bags Made of Suede Leather

• Relatively poor durability: As the inner layer of leather, its fiber structure is more loose than the outer layer (full-grain, top-grain leather). Therefore, it is not as durable as smooth leather and is more prone to wear and tear in areas prone to friction such as corners and handles.
• Easy to get stained and get damp: Its porous suede surface structure quickly absorbs water stains, oil stains, etc., and cleaning is difficult. Improper handling may leave permanent marks.
• Requires meticulous care: It is considered a “fragile” material and requires regular cleaning with special tools (such as suede brushes, erasers), and there are certain requirements for storage environment (cool and dry).

 

Pros and Cons of Suede Leather for Making Bags

Feature Dimension	Rating	Explanation
Durability	★★★☆☆ (Below Average)	Prone to abrasion, especially at edges. Lifespan depends heavily on usage intensity.
Aesthetics & Texture	★★★★★ (Excellent)	Matte nap, soft touch, creates unique retro, luxurious, or casual styles.
Care Difficulty	★☆☆☆☆ (High)	Requires waterproofing/stain-proofing; cleaning and maintenance steps are complex, requiring specialized tools and products.
Seasonal Suitability	More suitable for Fall/Winter	The material itself feels warm and visually pairs well with autumn/winter clothing.
Brand Adoption	Very Widespread	Used extensively by high-end luxury brands and designer labels, recognized as a fashionable material.

 

When Is Suede Leather a Good Choice for a Bag?

Ideal For	Not Ideal For
✔️ Evening or special-occasion bags	✖️ Everyday work totes
✔️ Seasonal (spring/summer) accessories	✖️ Commuter or school backpacks
✔️ Fashion-forward, low-use statement pieces	✖️ Travel duffels or gym bags
✔️ Interior linings or accent panels (combined with smooth leather)	✖️ Environments with dust, sand, or moisture

 

Suitable Bag Styles

Recommended for suede:

• Handbag/Shopping Bag: For daily use, spacious and with a comfortable soft touch
• Bucket-shaped Bag: The excellent draping effect highlights the softness of the leather material
• Shoulder Bag/Sling Bag: Small to medium size, suitable for casual occasions
• Tote bag/Evening Bag: Less used can keep the appearance tidy

Less suitable for suede:

• Backpack (with many friction areas, prone to wear)
• Travel/Luggage bag (may be compressed or stained)
• Outdoor/Hiking bag (requires waterproofness and durability)
• Structural/Rectangular bag (leather material lacks sufficient strength)

 

How to Make a Suede Bag More Practical

If you like suede but want it to be more durable:

• Choose a thicker leather: Goat or cow suede is more durable than fine lambskin.
• Apply protective treatment: Before using for the first time, apply a high-quality suede protector and reapply it every 2 to 3 months.
• Strengthen stressed areas: Use smooth leather or fabric at the handles, bottom, and corners.
• Equip with a dust bag: Store it in a breathable cotton bag when not in use.

 

Conclusion

Suede leather is a fashionable and high-quality material for bags, but it is not suitable for heavy-duty daily-use bags – its soft, velvety texture adds a delicate and warm aesthetic to the bags.

Suede leather is highly suitable for lightweight, casual or semi-luxurious bag styles (such as tote bags with suede decorations, small crossbody bags, and evening bags), and is also an important choice for budget luxury brands like Longchamp (used for the decorative elements of Le Pliage) and Coach.

If you are running your own bag business and want to customize a bulk of suede leather bags, please feel free to contact Gionar to discuss the specific details.